To crochet a ball for amigurumi, start with 6 single crochet in a magic ring, add 6 stitches each round until the ball is as wide as you want, crochet several rounds with no shaping, then take away 6 stitches per round in the same steps. Stuff firmly when the opening is still large, then close the last stitches.
The three phases of every sphere
A crocheted ball has a simple structure, and once you see it you can read almost any head or body pattern at a glance.
- Growing phase. Increase rounds widen the piece from a small ring to the full width of the ball.
- Middle phase. Even rounds, worked without increases or decreases, give the ball its height around the equator.
- Closing phase. Decrease rounds narrow the piece back down, usually mirroring the growing phase step for step.
A stitch marker in the first stitch of every round helps you keep track of the phases. Move it up at the start of each new round and count the stitches before you continue; a ball with one extra stitch in the growing phase will still close, but it often ends with a small bulge on one side.
The number of even rounds controls whether the ball is a true sphere, a slightly tall oval or a squashed shape. For a round ball, the middle phase is usually about as many rounds as the growing phase, minus one or two.
A complete example: a 36-stitch ball
This example makes a ball roughly the size of a small toy head in worsted-weight yarn with a hook around 3.5 mm. Sizes vary with your yarn and tension.
| Round | Instruction | Stitches |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 6 sc in a magic ring | 6 |
| 2 | 2 sc in every stitch | 12 |
| 3 | (1 sc, 2 sc in next) repeat 6 times | 18 |
| 4 | (2 sc, 2 sc in next) repeat 6 times | 24 |
| 5 | (3 sc, 2 sc in next) repeat 6 times | 30 |
| 6 | (4 sc, 2 sc in next) repeat 6 times | 36 |
| 7 to 12 | 1 sc in every stitch | 36 |
| 13 | (4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times | 30 |
| 14 | (3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times | 24 |
| 15 | (2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times | 18 |
| 16 | (1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times | 12 |
| 17 | dec repeat 6 times | 6 |
Stuff the ball after round 15 or 16, while you can still reach inside. Then work round 17 and close.
To make a bigger ball, keep adding one more plain stitch before each increase until you reach the width you want, add a few more even rounds, then decrease the same way. To make a smaller one, stop increasing sooner. For a fuller explanation of why the count grows by 6, see our guide to increasing and decreasing.
Choosing the decrease
Decreases are where a ball most often shows flaws, because the closing half pulls inward and small gaps open beside each decrease. Most amigurumi makers use the invisible decrease, worked through the front loops only of two stitches, because it sits almost flat and blends into the fabric. Our step-by-step guide to the invisible decrease covers the method and common mistakes.
If you notice that the decreases line up into a visible spiral of dimples, stagger them: start alternate decrease rounds with half the plain stitches, work the decrease, then the rest of the group. The count stays the same, but the decreases no longer sit in a straight line.
When and how to stuff
Stuffing at the right moment is the difference between a smooth ball and a lumpy one.
- Start when the opening is about a third of the full width. In the example above, that is after round 15. Waiting until 6 stitches remain makes it very hard to fill evenly.
- Use small pieces. Pull fiberfill into loose tufts the size of a walnut and add them one at a time, pushing each into the outer edges first.
- Shape as you go. Roll the ball between your palms after every few tufts. If one side is flatter, add a little stuffing there.
- Stuff a little more than seems necessary. Fiberfill settles over time, and a ball that feels firm today will feel softer in a few weeks.
Do not overstuff to the point that stitches stretch and stuffing shows between them. If that happens, remove a little and reshape.
Closing the last six stitches
After the final decrease round, cut the yarn leaving a tail of about 20 cm and pull it through the last loop. Thread it onto a tapestry needle. Then:
- Pass the needle through the front loop only of each of the remaining stitches, working from the outside in.
- Pull gently. The stitches gather like a drawstring and the hole closes.
- Insert the needle into the center of the closed hole and bring it out somewhere on the far side of the ball.
- Pull gently so the tail disappears, and trim it close to the surface. The end pulls back inside.
Working through front loops only gives a tighter, flatter closing point than going through both loops.
Turning a ball into other shapes
Once you can make a sphere, many other shapes are small variations.
| Shape | Change to the ball |
|---|---|
| Egg or teardrop | Increase more slowly at one end, or add extra even rounds before decreasing |
| Short wide head | Fewer even rounds in the middle phase |
| Body that narrows to a neck | Decrease more gradually and stop with 12 to 18 stitches open |
| Flat-bottomed body | Start with a flat circle and a back-loop-only round |
| Small nose or muzzle | A few rounds only, left open and stuffed lightly before sewing on |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Pointed top | Increases stacked in the same place every round | Stagger the start of increase rounds |
| Flat sides | Too few even rounds | Add one or two even rounds |
| Egg shape instead of round | Too many even rounds | Remove one or two even rounds |
| Lumpy surface | Large stuffing clumps | Use smaller tufts and roll as you stuff |
| Visible hole at the end | Closed through both loops or tail pulled loosely | Use the front loops and pull the tail firmly |
A ball takes most crocheters well under an hour once the rounds are familiar, which makes it a useful warm-up before a new pattern. When you are ready for a full toy, our amigurumi PDF patterns build heads and bodies from these same shaping rounds.
